Well, the weather outside is frightful

It's snowing here (yes, SNOWING!). I am indoors, sadly not in front of a delightful fire, but feeling quite happy nonetheless, largely due to the incredible cookie that I am eating (gingerbread filled with marzipan, covered in chocolate, and dusted with chopped pistachios). It's a good day.

I've been extremely neglectful of the blog, and while I'd love to say that it's because I'm soooo busy that I just haven't had a moment to sit down and write, it would be more accurate to say that I've been a bit out of sorts and haven't really been in the mood to blog. But, have no fear, all is right with the world now that there is snow! and heat! and the cookie!

Here's a bit of what I've been up to the past few days:

Today after class I went to the Hofburg Palace, former home of the Hapsburgs, those infamous imperial inbreeders. My visit served two purposes: to solidify my great desire for my own fainting couch, and to remind me that British tourists are just as annoying as American ones. I was stuck behind a large amorphous group of elderly Brits taking a guided tour, and there was absolutely no getting past them, so I was forced to listen to various snippets of their conversations:
"Oh my, quite interesting, that, isn't it?"
"Yes, isn't it? Seeing all those dishes makes me fancy a cup of tea."
"Oh, yes. I wouldn't say no to a biscuit or a finger sandwich, either."
"Jolly good. Let's sit down for a cuppa and a bit of a nibble when we're done here."
Etc., etc. All very charming in a Maggie Smith film, I'm sure, but irritating to those of us in the museum who were not interested in a) the guided tour, which contained such fascinating tidbits as the fact that Empress Elizabeth never slept with a pillow for fear of getting wrinkles; b) how tired certain older gentlemen were from all the walking; or c) whether or not to tip the housekeeping staff in the hotel.

Sunday morning I went to mass (try to wipe the shock off your face) at the Stephansdom, where there was a performance of Haydn's St. Cecilia Mass. The music was lovely, and felt almost otherworldly in a space like the cathedral, although I think it was colder inside than out. Much of the afternoon was spent in a café, reading an amazing book and eating cake. Is there a better way to spend a Sunday afternoon? I think not.

Saturday I climbed the 343 steps up a narrow spiral staircase to the top of the Stephansdom (in preparation for all the cake-eating the next day, perhaps), took a look around, and then climbed 343 steps back down to the bottom. Despite some clouds, the view was totally worth 3 euros (and all the pain and heart palpitations, of course). After I recovered I went to see The Last 5 Years at the Wiener Kammeroper. It's one of my favorite musicals, although I had never actually seen it, and I loved (LOVED!) the production. The actor playing Jamie was especially good, and the production itself was perfection. I tried not to be distracted by the German supertitles, which translated the meaning of almost everything but not its poetry. Not the jokes, either; I was often the only one in my section laughing. Is that how Italians feel when they watch Figaro in America?

This morning it was back to class, but with new teachers and several new students. I am no longer the oldest person in the class (did I tell you that everyone else was in the 19-21 age range?) because a 57-year-old Czech man is now in my class. Also, my new conversation teacher is hilarious and I now know about 10 German words for "drunk." That's bound to come in handy on my travels.

Let it snow, let it snow, let it snow!