How I spent 20 hours last week

copyright Wilfried Hösl

I'm writing this from Bayreuth, aka Wagnerville, which seems like the right place to tell you all about my Adventures in Wagner last week. CameraMan and I saw our very first Ring cycle! We saw the new production in Munich, which you can read more about (and see pictures!) here.

I have to admit, while I was excited to see the Ring, I was definitely excited AND scared. Whenever anyone heard we were going, most of their advice centered around things like taking enough naps and drinking plenty of coffee. I was worried about being tired and fidgety, about getting sleepy, and most of all about whether I would need to pee (Rheingold is 2 1/2 hours without intermission, and the first act of Götterdämmerung is almost as long). I was also worried I wouldn't know what was going on (no English surtitles in Germany, unfortunately). CM, of course, was studious and dutifully prepared by watching videos and reading the librettos. I, on the other hand, got to the end of Walküre and realized I had absolutely no idea what happened next. I was cramming synopses before every act.


I needn't have worried. I had the best time! The production, while not always to my taste, was never boring, and the music is just sublime. The casts were top-notch (hearing Nina Stemme as Brünnhilde would surely turn anyone into a Wagner fan), and the energy in the audience was unlike any I've experienced. CM had to cough at one point, and he realized that NOBODY in the house had been coughing. I don't know if you've been to the opera lately, but it often sounds like you're in a tuberculosis ward. Everyone was paying rapt attention, and the reactions were strong and immediate (maybe one of my favorite moments was when a particular bit of staging was booed by some audience members, and then others tried to drown them out with bravos—I thought there might be a rumble).


We saw friends who were in town for the Ring (including one onstage), threw in a Cenerentola and a recital for good measure, snuck across the street to Zum Franziskaner for beer and pretzels during second intermissions, and even made it to a couple museums (go here if you're ever in Munich, it's amazing). All in all, a great week.

copyright Wilfried Hösl

56. See the whole Ring cycle.


Can't wait for the next one!

6 comments:

  1. Congrats on crossing something off - what an accomplishment! Lovely seeing you briefly this summer! Hope you enjoy the rest of it!

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    1. Thanks, Ann! It was great to see you as well. Have a great rest of your summer!

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  2. So excited to see a new post in my reader! Glad you and CM are enjoying life. Best wishes and looking forward to the next time you have something to share.

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    1. Thank you! For whatever reason, I was moved to post again. Who knows, it might even happen again. :)

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  3. Hey Louisa, I don't think you will remember me but I got in touch with you before moving to Vienna last year. And ever since I have been following your blog. Anyways... so happy to have you back here :) Was a little sad that you were signing off for the summer. Hope you had a lovely time all over!

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    1. Hi, Aditi, of course I remember you! Hope your move to Vienna was smooth and that you're enjoying the city! We were just there for a few days, and I was reminded of how amazing it is (although it was WAY too hot to handle). And have you been to the opera?? :)

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