Monday morning, 6:18am



Our train arrived in Florence this morning as scheduled, at precisely 6:18am. The sky was still completely dark and the city was just beginning to wake up. We wandered through streets and piazzi, alone but for street sweepers and the occasional biker. It was cold; we could see our breath in the air. We took pictures of closed landmarks and empty squares. We followed the smell of delicious things baking and the sound of locals laughing to a bar where we ordered sweet pastries and frothy cappuccini, which we consumed at a tall table surrounded by Italians stopping in on their way to work. The sky slowly grew light, but the hazy fog remained. There wasn’t a tourist to be found. Except for us, of course.

It was magical. Surely any city can be discovered anew in the early morning hours, but this city in particular, previously seen only through summer crowds, seemed ours alone this morning. As we walked through those same streets and piazzi later in the long-awaited sunlight, we felt privy to a secret, to the real Florence.

We’ve been here less than 24 hours, but we already have our favorite coffee place, our favorite restaurant, our favorite bar. And isn’t that the way to travel: finding corners of an unfamiliar city, staking your claim, and planting your flag in the ground? This morning before the sun came up, all of Florence was ours for the taking.

And so we did.

Frohes Wochenende!

We just got home, and I'm still on a high from the incredible concert we just saw. It was truly one for the books: Dudamel on the podium, the LA Phil rocking the hell out of some Mahler, in the Musikverein, which has got to have one of the best acoustics anywhere in the world (and…just Googled that…I was right). Also, my date was super hot.

What are you up to this weekend? Fun plans? I will be packing and getting ready, because we leave for Florence on Sunday(!) and when we get back I'll have about an hour at home before I leave for the airport to go to NYC (ack!).

Some links for your weekend:

I fell down a Google rabbit hole and ended up at A Creative Mint. Oh, I love it so. Pretty things make me happy.

Lemon meringue ice cream pie?!? Yes, please. Yes.

Kristen Schaal, can we be best friends? Call me.

I've had this for breakfast every day this week. With walnuts on top instead of sugar. Highly recommend.

On my wish list.


My 365 Project continues on apace. I made this little video to celebrate making it through the first month.



Hope your weekend is full of donuts, outdoor markets, and adventures! xoxo LMB

Sofapocalypse

My Facebook News Feed has been chock-full of winter weather updates these past few days: from New York, from Chicago, even from Houston (what is the world coming to?)! My friends' photo albums all have names like SNOMG, and Snowpocalypse, and Thundersnow, and their status updates are all stories of snow days and rolling blackouts and canceled flights.

Not so here in Wien, where the weather has been bitterly cold but staunchly anti-precipitation. Or so I've heard. I'm officially in Hibernation Mode, savoring these last few days on the couch with my laptop, my kitty, and a blanket. It's become a running maybe not-so-funny joke that CM can't get me to leave the apartment no matter how hard he tries, so tonight I'm going to let him take me out to dinner (isn't that nice of me?), and then tomorrow we're going to see Gustavo Dudamel and the LA Phil (SO EXCITED!!), Saturday is CM's Billy Budd opening night, and Sunday we leave for Florence.

All worthy reasons to leave my cave, I guess.

But it's so nice and warm under this blanket...

Wedding Wednesday (Hochzeit Mittwoch?)

I am writing this here so that I can remember where I put it, and refer to it often in times of bridal insanity (such as…erm…today):

From the ever-practical A Practical Wedding:
Our priority list…was:
  1. By the end of the day, we should be married...TO EACH OTHER.
  2. No casualties.

Can you remind me of this often, please? I'm looking at you, CameraMan.

On the bright side, the trams here have heated seats

The Viennese are a hardy bunch, particularly when it comes to the weather. On more than one occasion I have walked through the rain and been the ONLY person using an umbrella, as the natives stroll at their usual pace, the raindrops falling on their heads seeming to go completely unnoticed. It's been bitterly cold here for a few days, enough to make me want to stay huddled inside eating soup where it's warm, but the Viennese are unfazed. They're out and about, maybe slightly more bundled up than usual, walking (very slowly) everywhere and enjoying the outdoors.

I am no Wiener. Yet, in the interest of making new friends, I braved the cold with CM Sunday morning to go to a Flickr meetup at the Zoo, of all places.

I do not recommend going to the Zoo in January, by the way. I recommend staying in your pjs all day, snuggling, and catching up on Boardwalk Empire while sipping hot cocoa mit Schlag. Just for the record.

Which is not to say I didn't have a good time. It was exciting to meet some new people (although we both suddenly turned very shy and very inarticulate, and not only when we were speaking German), and I always love the Zoo. Only a select few of the animals were outside, though, and any time we went indoors our camera lenses fogged up so much that it was impossible to take any pictures, so we'd have to head back outside.

Polar bear on a rare break from guzzling Coke products.




This sleepy tiger didn't mind snuggling in the snow.


My favorite animal of the day was a cat. Not a big cat—a HOUSE CAT. (What, is that weird?) There was this orange house cat hanging out in the elephant enclosure (in the aforementioned foggy indoors, which is why I don't have a picture to show you). At first he was in the observing area, getting petted by people and sharpening his claws on some shrubbery, and then all of a sudden he was walking INTO the elephant cage and wandering around. Then he wandered back out, went outside, and came right back in to have snacks. It was surreal. And amazing. I don't think the Bossy Cat would make a very good Zoo Cat, but I could be wrong.

Scruffy bird giving itself a much-needed bath.

Another highlight involved three peacocks wandering freely along the paths, dragging their long tails behind them.

Friendly peacock and child.

By that point, I could barely feel the lower half of my body, so it was time to say Auf wiedersehen to our new friends and head home.

I think we might wait until Spring to go back to the Zoo.

Or maybe in the meantime we'll become Viennese.

30/365: Even the penguins looked cold. But maybe that was just me.

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